When It’s Time For A Break

by Deborah Lee Miller-Riley

(c) December 2011

As a canine watersports judge, I have witnessed thousands of great dogs compete for watersports titles. While I always share the excitement of triumph and commend qualifiers for their success and skill, what I appreciate most in a team is not based on whether they pass. It is their display of partnership, a team performance radiating trust, focus and mutual joy. 

It is a good handler who knows the difference between when discipline and pressure can guide her dog to a joyful performance, and when pressure should be removed by sacrificing task success for the dog’s well-being.  Delaying a training or competition goal, for what your friends might perceive as giving up or encouraging disobedience, is neither a private nor a painless decision on the day of a trial.  It is why I exalt handlers who have the strength of character to ensure their dog’s happiness during a man-made event. These dog-centric handlers are relationship architects and the true dog whisperers of our time.  They appropriately assess the dog and always act in the best interest of the dog and their relationship.

I wish I had been born knowing everything about dogs, I would suffer less guilt today if it were so. Nope, I am not one of the natural dog whisperers I so admire.  I am a recovering human - a person working toward being a better friend, leader and sage to each generation of dogs. And my education has been difficult at times - not just for me.

One of my most costly lessons came years ago.   I sat, legs dangling in the water, ready to send my competition dog off a boat platform to complete her last task in a water test.  It was to be her fifth leap from the stern that would earn my brass ring, a PWDCA Courier Excellent title, the highest water title a Portuguese Water Dog could earn at the time. 

My dog was truly a gifted communicator. She usually did her best to please me but, at this moment, as I asked her to jump, she turned her head away from me and remained seated at my side.  I asked her again with a more demanding tone. Her skin rippled up her back, but her eyes returned to me and she poked me with her cold nose. When she rose to her feet and shook the water from her coat, hope filled me like the wind opening a sail. Then came the stillness when I realized her paws were not reaching for the gunnel. Instead, she twisted her body into an about-turn, planted her rump, tucked her tail and asked our rower how her day was going.

I couldn’t believe she was doing this to me!  Didn’t she realize the costs, the time, the rarity of water tests, the hopes of

Knowing when we are asking too much of our dogs, knowing when it’s time for a break from a trial situation or from a training session is something we can learn. We do so by  declaring our intention to cultivate sensitivity, awareness, trust in, and with, our dogs.  It begins by becoming aware of who our dog is, her personality traits, her desires, her fears, her abilities and her tolerances.  It grows with the principle that we are the dog’s one true advocate.

Such responsibility cannot be delegated to the dog, friends or a trial judge.  It demands that we not only watch and listen to our dog, but that we find mentors who do so too, that they may teach us awareness and give us perspective.  It requires that we have a sense of humor about our own imperfection so that we are able to recognize when our tension, negative thoughts or ambitions are fogging a loving relationship-in-training.

Real teamwork produces mutual joy. Knowing when you need a team break is as simple as recognizing happiness in yourself and your dog.  If one of you isn’t happy and focused, then it’s time for a break.  A break can be hours or months or a moment: it is the time that is required for reflection, change and action that resets the production of happiness.  If you find yourself in one of these moments while working with your dog, it’s time for a break:

1. •You are not intentionally setting the dog  up to succeed.
   

2. •You can’t see progress.
   

3. •Your voice volume is rising and distance from your dog is not increasing.
   

4. •Your hands are frequently inhibiting canine behavior.
   

5. •You are using restraint devices to gain compliance.
   

6. •You think what you want is more important than what the dog wants.
   

7. •Making the dog do “it” is more important than earning the dog’s willing participation.
   

8. •You feel anxious when the dog’s performance is unexpected or disappointing.
   

9. •You lack joyous non-food reinforcers or you are out of food reinforcers.
   

10. •The word “no” is replacing the word “yes” or click.
    

11. •Your focus has moved to how to suppress behavior.
    

12. •The duration between smiles is increasing.
    

13. •You are confused about the purpose of the training or where to go next.
    

14. •You think the dog is just “blowing you off” or that her intention is disobedience.
    

15. •People or dogs are annoying you.
    

16. •Suggestions offered by fellow trainers create defensiveness or anger.
    

17. •Clock watching or chatting with friends is more frequent than dog watching.
    

18. •You are not having fun.
    

19. •You think it’s time for a break.
    

As you may have noticed, dogs don’t talk to us in words and they are usually poor about setting physical limits when high on adrenaline. It is up to us to become astute students of canine ills, discomfort, distress, frustration, over-arousal, and most importantly, canine happiness. If you observe any of these signs in your dog during training or a trial it may be time for a break and an assessment. 

The dog:

1. •refuses to enter the water  (This is also a common symptom of a tick-born illness if you normally have a water-loving dog);
   

2. •refuses to swim;
   

3. •swims lower, slower in the water;
   

4. •suddenly refuses food, toys, or play;
   

5. •repeatedly swims to shore, disengages from work;
   

6. •repeatedly leaves the handler, disengages from work;
   

7. •pants excessively with a long tongue;
   

8. •has dilated pupils, a glazed-over look;
   

9. •breathes heavily; chest and stomach are heaving;
   

10. •shows signs of injury, lameness, touch avoidance or sensitivity;

    

    
    

11. •exhibits any hesitancy atypical of the dog;
    

12. •licks you repeatedly, paws or pokes you;
    

13. •changes in behavior - normally energetic, focused, engaging; now disinterested or slow to respond;
    

14. •changes movement or carriage;
    

15. •avoids jumping up;
    

16. •shows symptoms of swimmer’s tail: tail is drooping, dog is not lifting the tail during arousal;
    

17. •repeatedly shakes or scratches: body, head or ears;
    

18. •barks excessively;
    

19. •exhibits aggression including: hard eye contact, growling, snarling, or snapping;
    

20. •is inattentive, not interested in the task or the trainer;
    

21. •does not respond to cues for familiar and basic behaviors;
    

22. •will not respond to a recall cue;
    

23. •refuses to repeat a behavior;
    

24. •refuses to hold, carry or swim with a familiar object - but usually does or will do so on land;
    

25. •refuses to leave a boat platform when asked;
    

26. •appears desperate to board a boat, repeats swim circles around or tries to climb
    

27. onto the boat;
    

28. •refuses to leave the water, obsessed with something in the water;
    

29. •sniffs when trainer engages dog;
    

30. •urinates or marks when trainer engages dog;
    

31. •laps water beyond thirst;
    

32. •rolls in the sand or grass, creating “sand angels,” in response to trainer engagement; 
    

33. •gets the “zoomies” - wild bouts of racing around the trainer;
    

34. •yawns in response to trainer engagement;
    

35. •tongue flicking in response to trainer engagement;
    

36. •deliberately turns head away or turns back to trainer in response to trainer engagement;
    

37. •crouches with no or slow deliberate movement, tail tucked under or between legs.
    

Keep fresh the passion for friendship, the goodness of feeling your dog’s joy and desire to play with you, to work for you.  These feelings are the reason we train, the real reason for sports. Learning when it’s time for a break from the conformity of trial rules or a backyard training session will help preserve your intention to be a better, wiser human friend to your beloved dogs.  When in doubt, give yourself and your dog a break.  When it doesn’t feel right to you, trust yourself, stop and find answers.  Learn everything you can about your dog. Be a student for life. Actively seek answers and wisdom and they will come. Your effort will shine through your teamwork and leave you with something priceless.

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Floats to Boats - Teaching A Dog To Jump For Joy

by Deborah Lee Miller-Riley

ⓒ  April 2011

Like a rocket on the Fourth of July, an airborne dog is pretty darn exhilarating to watch. Throughout history dogs have leapt into water to retrieve, rescue and transport for the love of a human.  The modern dog continues to serve us in the water, but splash sports from dock diving to boatwork are drawing the limelight these days.  

Getting a dog with the strength, ability and desire to perform an inspiring jump from a platform takes patience, planning, and progressive training -- training that smartly balances safety, experience, muscle strength, flexibility, self-control, performance ability and enthusiasm. The following training program is designed to help you teach your dog to jump from a boat platform with ability and attitude.  

Before jump work is started:

1. •A dog should have no hesitation about joining the handler for a swim.
   

2. •Use a canine lifejacket -- accidents can have long term adverse effects on your training goals and the dog’s confidence. 
   

3. •The dog should be healthy and rested before entering the water.
   

4. •Know your dog’s limits and stop training before fatigue starts.  
   

5. •Gradually build for strength, body awareness and water confidence.
   

6. •Make sure jump decks provide safe traction for lift-offs.
   

7. •Remove all throat-wear. Long lines and leashes are an unnecessary hazard.
   

8. •NEVER push or pull the dog into the water.  Behavior that is volunteered reduces canine stress and fear and increases team joy, trust and confidence. 
   

Shore work:

1. 1. Permit the dog exploration of three kinds of jump decks.
   

1. (1)A large towable float. This is a modern day inner tube -- sold at marine stores, durable enough to be towed behind speed boats. The float is used to teach tolerance for turbulence, balance, distance from shore, relaxation and control. 
   

2. (2)A submergible table/platform. Used as a steady deck below the surface. Allows the dog to focus on foot position, launch posture, and strength building.  Two height sizes are used. For building control and confidence a “step” height platform is used in shallow water. A taller, 36”, platform in needed to complete the jump training in deeper water. You can make your own with PVC pipes (add holes) or use an old grooming table for the tall platform and a set of concrete blocks for the short platform.
   

3. (3)A row boat with a solid platform placed on the stern’s gunnels. 
   

4. Introducing one deck at a time, praise and toss treats for any initial curiosity. Encourage the dog to step up on top. Play with and feed the dog on each deck and work toward a dog who happily jumps up, sits, and downs on top. The boat is the final destination for platform jumping.  If you do not have access to a boat, the other decks will teach the jump behavior and prepare the dog for an easy transition to the boat’s jump criteria.
   

2. 2.Teach the dog a CUED response to boarding the float, water platform and the boat. When the dog is enthusiastically getting on the float, platform and boat, attach a cue to the behavior of boarding up.  A simple “Boat-Up” cue is fine.  When the dog jumps on board, mark it with a click or yes and toss the treat away from the deck.  As the dog returns, give the “Boat-up” cue and mark the dog’s contact with the deck, then toss again.  Play games of sending the dog to the platform for a sit or down-stay followed by a treat chase game. 
   

3. 3.Teach the dog a CUED response for getting off a float, water platform and a beached boat. Sit on or stand next to the platform with the dog on top and toss a treat away as you give the cue for getting off.  When the dog comes back, treat for the return and give the cue for boarding up.  Repeat two more times. Next, give the cue for “off”, delay tossing the treat until the dog is jumping off.  Throw several treats, but wait until after each has been eaten before flicking the next one. Practice.
   

Shallow water work:

1. 1.FLOAT /BOAT Over the next several trials, move the float (Repeat for boat) closer to the water until it floating slightly and moves when boarded.  Accustom the dog to boarding from different angles to learn how to balance on the buoyant object.  Have the float/boat held so that it does not launch if the dog jumps on or off of it.
   

2. 2.PLATFORM  Bring the short water platform into the water, so it is just underwater.  Rehearse boarding and stepping off.
   

3. 3.FLOAT Bring the float off the shoreline so that it is free floating and line it up with the water platform so the dog can step onto the platform and then onto the float.  Play in the shallow water until the dog is comfortable getting on an off the float using the water platform.
   

4. 4.BOAT With the handler positioned to move with the boat, board the dog.  Pull the boat into a few feet of water and then back to shore, allowing the dog to jump off.  Feed the dog treats while the boat is moving. If the dog jumps off before cued, say nothing and start over.  Practice this exercise with the dog in stand, sit and down positions.  Next, the handler joins the dog on the boat. Take care to pull the boat off the beach before the handler sits.  Practice cueing the dog to sit and down while floating in water just deep enough to keep the boat free-floating.  Bounce the boat a bit and feed the dog for accepting this game.  Have the handler sit on the middle of the boat platform and lure the dog to a sit position next to the handler, then guide the dog to sit on the opposite side of the handler.  Practice this movement with a down or sit-stay next to the handler over various durations.  
   

5. 5.FLOAT Practice a few sit and down stays on shore.  With the dog in a stay on the beach, move the float off the beach so it is free floating. Cue the dog to board. Be sure to hold the float so it does not launch away from the dog while boarding.  Rehearse, stay on shore with a release to board the float on cue.   Next, call the dog to board, then move the float out a short distance from shore and move it parallel to shore for a few strides. Treat while moving. Gradually build the duration of these rides. (Do the same with the boat.)
   

6. 6. FLOAT Board the dog and move the float further away from shore, treat the dog for remaining relaxed on the tube, then return to shore.  Gradually build for distance away from shore.  Then, while away from shore and in swim depth for the handler, cue the dog to down and then sit.  Reward the dog for responding to the changing cues and for remaining calm and balanced.  Build the ride duration, distance from shore and focus on the swimming handler.
   

7. 7.PLATFORM  Move the short water platform to a depth that allows the dog to swim onto the platform and stand in elbow-deep water.  Call the dog onto the platform. Encourage the dog to feel the edges of the platform.  Treat for staying on the platform.  When the dog is comfortable, give the “off” cue and wade toward shore.  Praise and treat for the push-off while in the water.  Return to shore.   Next, ask the dog to push-off the platform on a course parallel to the shoreline.  Mark and treat the push off.  Rehearse the parallel push off in both directions.  Next, ask for a push off toward open water, away from shore.  Mark and reinforce for success.  Train for a confident push-off in all four directions.
   

Building body awareness and strength.

Shallow water training builds handler focus, cued directional control, confidence and the ability to move on and off the platforms. This training is fine for young dogs. Jumps from positions above the water surface, which often include great intensity, add to the risk of injury. Dogs should be physically mature and at least 18 months of age before starting jumps above the water.  

1. 1.Place a 36”-tall water platform (water table or a grooming table) in the water at a depth that permits the dog to stand on it, elbow deep in the water.  This allows the dog to rehearse a fixed base push-off at a greater distance from shore.  Rehearse push-offs in all directions.  Practice with the handler away from the platform calling the dog off; with the handler standing next to the platform sending the dog off with a cue; and then with the handler sitting on the platform and sending the dog off.  Practice each handler position with the four send directions. Have fun at this stage. When you train for performance joy, speed, strength, jump technique, and endurance will follow. 
   

2. 2.Adjust the water platform depth to bring the water a few inches below the dog’s elbow.  Rehearse the handler positions and the send directions.  Gradually over a few more sessions bring the platform to depths that place the dog higher out of the water.  These gradual changes teach the dog how to use his body to jump safely, confidently and powerfully on cue. 
   

3. 3.When the dog is jumping joyfully near the surface of the water, invite the dog onto the float and bring to a minimum three-foot water depth.  With the float held in place, give the dog permission to jump.  Toss reinforcement ahead of the dog.  Celebrate the jump.  Practice for joy.
   

4. 4.Boat jumps.   Begin in water at least three-feet deep to insure the dog does not hit bottom when jumping.  Make sure all jumps are straight off the broadest edge of the stern based platform.  With the dog on the boat’s platform next to the handler, cue the jump. Handler may toss food, toys or herself into the water to celebrate the success of this jump.   Avoid pulling the dog back on board the boat.  Guide the dog to a water platform or restart from shore.  Dogs must be trained (another lesson) to board a boat from swim depth to avoid pain or injury, which can lead to boat aversion. Rehearse jumps from either side of the handler and turn the boat to face the four directions for jumps. 
   

5. 5.When ready to add retrieve and delivery games, return to the submerged water platform to build solid behaviors. Working delivery games between two platforms can make training fast, easy and fun for the dog.  When the dog has been taught to safely board a boat from the swim position, you are ready for boat retrieves and those impressive, skillful jumps.
   

Aquagility; Sporting Good Fun for Exercise and Competition.

by Deborah Lee Miller-Riley

ⓒ January 2011

The really important things in life are not material; they are the precious intangible moments in life that bring joy and satisfaction to the soul.  Such moments overflow when you work with a water-loving dog, eye to eye, shoulder to shoulder in a graceful, fluid expanse. You cannot help but to inhale the spiritual nature of the moment and smile.

Whether your goal is to train for exercise and greater canine awareness or to exhibit your dog’s talent at a watersports test, training Novice Team Swim behaviors can serve to enrich and deepen your teamwork and skill level.

1. 1. Karen Stiff-Carroll of New Jersey has water-loving Rottweilers, Jerome and Takoda who also work in Obedience, Agility, Tracking, Herding and Rally. Karen claims swimming with her dogs gave her a whole new perspective. Training a leash-free dog at eye level tends to change your perception of real control and cooperation.  I think team-swim tasks are a must-do for anyone who wants to solidify their relationship with their dog. I truly feel our water work experience paved the way for all our successes in other sports, because success in the water relies heavily on having a great relationship with your dog.
      

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   4. New Jersey watersports instructor, judge, and Aussie owner, Lisa Pattison, says, Swimming enhances my connection with my dogs.  I literally "see" what they are experiencing. I am more aware of their breathing and focus. Training in the water can test cues and reinforcers in the purest sense, because the water covers familiar body language.  I like that in the water, the playing field for learning is leveled for teams. Both the dog and handler are in an environment that has no previous history. You have a clean slate to build on. You reap what you sow. You accept your dog’s psyche and create moments together that foster learning and trust. The relationship feeds on itself and you soon realize you are a team in the water.
      

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   7. Mary Nottingham of New York brought her 10-month-old male Portuguese Water Dog, Kinsale, to the water last summer. Her decision to come was not based solely on the fact that water work is a healthy choice for a growing pup, nor because it is part of the PWD’s heritage. Mary came because she finds the water a highly pleasurable place to focus on the training needs of her spirited adolescent. Sun and splash fun are shared pleasures that provide bonding moments while building a team foundation. Mary is also quick to say having a relaxed and quiet pup for the ride home isn’t so bad either.
      

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How is team swimming different from recreational swimming?

Team Swimming is the mastership of useful and regulated watersports behaviors.  It asks the dog to be patient, careful and respectful around a vulnerable swimming person.   It asks the dog to be confident, self-disciplined and cooperative with his/her human partner as they intentionally swim together over a course. The dog may be required to discriminate target labels and to obey a swimming handler’s directional and proximity demands. Team Swimming demands both partners develop additional audible and visual signals for near and far teamwork, as familiar body language is often submerged and words can become muffled in the splash. It asks the team to accustom themselves to swimming with safety gear, such as life jackets, and to become disciplined and respectful of other teams sharing the swim area.

All Dogs Welcome

Don’t think that just dogs bred for waterwork can pass the entrance level team swim test.  These pioneer teams are the first in their breed/mix to pass the Team Swim:

Afghan Hound, Victor and Cynthia Fox

Australian Cattle Dog,  Kitty and Jane Killion

Australian Shepherd, Lacey and Lisa Pattison

Australian Terrier, Ben and Nancy Wentworth

Belgian Malinois,  Vino and Sheila Booth

Border Collie, Beau and Pam Dennison

Boston Terrier, Mr. Peabody and Lisa Norris

German Shepherd, Nova and Sheila Booth

Irish Red Setter, Derby and Marjorie Lineweber

Irish Red & White Setter, Fyssher and Marjorie Lineweber

Irish Wolfhound Mix, Briar and Kate Connick

Pug, Clarabelle and Carol Yonan

Rottweiler,  Takoda and Karen Stiff-Carroll

Schapendoes, Guardian and Kim Parker

Scottish Terrier,  Leeza and Kathy Foley

Vizsla,  Casey and Marianne Megan 

The Novice Team Swim Test

The Novice Team Swim test, is a start-here task that exemplifies basic control, water safety and teamwork. This test is part of the Canine Water Sports--Team Swim Work category, consisting of all tasks where handlers direct their dogs from a swimming or standing position in the water and swim with their dog for a portion of the exercise. Swim test behaviors may include, towing, retrieving, delivering and weaving in between water markers. Dogs must swim patterns around swimmers, have directional and distance control around markers and boats, make platform climbs & jumps.  Shore stopovers and 35 to 100 ft. recalls from shore to sea add to the challenge. 

In the Novice Team Swim, the dog is required to

1. 1.Stay: keep four paws in a 6’ x 6’ shore-based starter’s box, until called by the handler who leaves the dog and moves to a marker, 35 feet from shore. 
   

2. 2.Come: go directly to the handler when called.
   

3. 3.Circle: paddle around the handler for 30 seconds, while the handler remains in place. 
   

4. 4.Team Swim: swim together out to the 60’ line, where they will face four water markers set on a parallel line (with the shore), 20 ft apart. 
   

5. 5.Follow Course Direction: swim together, in a zig-zag pattern between the markers.
   

6. 6.Go to Shore: return together to the starter’s box. 
   

Like all CWS tasks, the Novice Team Swim is judged against two performance aspects, technical and presentational. The technical aspect, includes accomplishing the physical demands of the task within the rules and regulations. The presentational aspect includes sportsman-like behavior, priority for safety and the overall sense of joy the dog and the handler project during their performance.  The team must pass both the technical and the presentational aspects of the task to qualify. Passing the Novice Team Swim test earns the team a water Merit and qualifies them for entry into the other categories of watersports.

Two-Dog Team Swim Test

Erica Etchason of New Jersey was the first handler to complete the Double Dog Team Swim Task.  She and her two Newfoundland Dogs, Molly and Fozzie, beautifully and successfully completed the technical and presentational aspects of the Novice Team Swim.  Both giant dogs simultaneously performed the Novice Team Swim with Erica to earn this merit. It was a lovely exhibition of training, cooperation and joyful teamwork. Her accomplishment demonstrates doubling the effort can bring you twice the pleasure of success.

Tow and Slalom Team Swim Test

This fun test incorporates a handler-tow and an agility challenge.  The test requires the dog to:

1. 1.Stay: keep four paws in the starter’s box while the handler swims to the 100 ft line.
   

2. 2.Come: go immediately to the handler when called.
   

3. 3.Tow: tow the handler, by a harness line, to the 60 ft line.
   

4. 4.Team Swim: together swim to the four slalom markers spaced 3 feet apart on a perpendicular line between 35 and 45 feet from the shoreline.
   

5. 5.Weave: swim alone, between the markers in a zig-zag pattern
   

6. 6.Go To Shore: while the handler remains at the 35 ft. line the dog returns and waits in the starter’s box until the handler, who waits for a count of 10, returns to the box.
   

The Advanced Team Swim Test

This test expands upon the basic demands in the Tow and Slalom Team Swim and adds greater duration, endurance, course directional control and impressive distance control. The task has eleven segments with four stations.  The stations are: starter’s box, boater, slalom markers and two swimmers.  The test requires the dog to:

1. 1.Stay: keep four paws in the starter’s box while the handler swims to the 100 ft line.
   

2. 2.Come: go immediately to the handler when called.
   

3. 3.Team Swim: with the handler, swim to the 60 ft line.
   

4. 4.Circle: upon direction of the handler, swim alone around a boater and return to handler.
   

5. 5.Team Swim: together swim to the four slalom markers spaced 3 feet apart on a perpendicular line between 35 and 45 feet from the shoreline.
   

6. 6.Weave: upon direction of the handler, alone, swim a zig-zag pattern between 4 markers.
   

7. 7.Go to shore: swim alone to shore and wait in the starter’s box for the count of 10.
   

8. 8.Come: return to the handler waiting at the 35 ft line.
   

9. 9.Swim: go with the handler to within 6 feet of two swimmers spaced 10 feet apart.
   

10. 10.Figure-8: upon direction of the handler independently swim a figure-8 pattern around the swimmers.
    

11. 11.Return to shore: with the handler return to the starter’s box to complete the test.
    

Several teams have come close to passing this test, but no team has qualified in the Advanced Team Swim yet.   You and your dog could be the first to accomplish the Advanced Team Swim or one of the new aquagility games being created by Canine Water Sports for water-loving dogs. Make the splash difference with your dog and bring home some soul-wanting joy and satisfaction.

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Below the Surface in Canine Water Sports

by Deborah Lee Miller-Riley

ⓒ December 2010

1. Dive while Wading. This is a full head submersion that requires the dog to submerge her entire head, retrieve a submerged article and deliver to hand.
   

2. Dive while Swimming. This is a full body submersion that requires the dog to submerge her body below the surface to make a retrieve. Tails and long coats above the surface are permitted.  In the swim dive, the dog begins while swimming next to the handler. The article may be tossed to sink or be suspended underwater.
   

3. Dive from a Platform. This is a full-body submersion that begins with a leap off a water platform with the handler next to the dog. The retrieve article is tossed to sink or may hang suspended.  The water platform is placed at or just above the water surface and is free standing or fixed to the bottom.
   

4. Dive from a Boat. This is a full-body dive retrieve from a boat platform. Team begins on a free-floating boat. The dog leaps from the boat to dive underwater and retrieve a suspended article. In platform jumps, as long as the dog submerged on the first dive, the dog may continue to dive from a swim position to complete the retrieve within the time limit.
   

About Submersion Training

Dogs target underwater articles through surface scent, touch and ultimately by sight.  If you have a breed that sprouts a forelock, it’s important to trim away or tie up hair that would otherwise impair the dog’s vision.

Fluid pressure during submersions deeper than a few feet can inflict pain and harm canine ears. Dogs with ear, nose or eye inflammation, infection, or immune issues should be seen by a veterinarian before water training. A canine ear wash applied before and after swimming will reduce ear infections.

Work to keep your dog’s mind in a state of play and far from the primal fear of drowning. Play hesitation is valuable information that demands trainers review the dog’s health status, physical ability, biological and emotional needs.

Safety Gear. Canine gear consists of a harness that will not impede the dog’s airway or cause pain if rescue or restraint is needed during dive training. Canine life jackets are optional. Collars are prohibited. Handlers must wear a life jacket and appropriate water footwear.

Water Platforms. The use of a MPG Water Platform is invaluable when introducing a dog to submersion work in open water, but buckets, tubs and baby pools can be a place to start at home. How to build a MPG Water Platform is posted on the Nautical Dog Store page at www.caninewatersports.com. 

Training Strategies

1. 1. •Tease with a toy or piece of food. Chunks of meat are better than tidbits. As the dog moves to investigate, lower the lure an inch or two beneath the water surface.  Release the lure when the dog’s nose submerges.
      

   2. •While the dog is watching, scatter chunks of meat in the water.  Step away and let experimentation and food drive work for you.
      

   3. •At a lake, tease your dog with her favorite lure, then run into the water and dive under. Her curiosity may have her joining you.  If your dog loves balls, release a submerged tennis ball when the dog finds you - the ball will quickly pop to the surface adding extra excitement and interest in the game.
      

   4. •Mechanical swimming fish and fuzzy toys on a string held wiggling beneath the surface will excite some dogs.  If you have live fish at your water location, bait the fish into coming close to the surface and watch for canine interest.  Take care you do not build an obsessive fish hunter -- this can be a  problem at a trial.
      

   5. •Create social competition using a friendly, experienced diving dog. Lure the duo underwater and watch the novice for effort to follow.  Release the lure while the nose is dunking.
      

   6. •Target games can encourage submersion also.  Ask for nose contact on a hand or remote target submerged for a nose dunk.

      

      
      

2. To speed learning, be sure reinforcement is delivered while dog the is submerged.
   

1. 1. Moving on Down. When the dog is happily dunking her nose, encourage a muzzle poke. Then achieve eyes below.  At ear depth be prepared to up the ante.  The sensation of water, especially cold water, flooding the ear canal can be startling and annoying.  Most dogs quickly get past the annoyance if you increase the lure stakes. Question ear health and structure if  there is hesitation or refusal to participate.  
      

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   3. Your dog might need to build Submersion Stamina. Repetitions should reflect this breath-holding goal. One to three submersions per session is fine in early training.
      

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   5. Predatory drive is a huge motivator in submersion games.  Rev up your dog’s desire for play and chase before asking the dog to submerge deeper.  Teasing and playing on the surface, between dives, may increase the desire to pursue a toy or treat underwater.
      

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   7. Once you set a depth goal, keep it.  If the dog refuses after a reasonable amount of time, end the game and move on to something else.  Plan for success next time.  Avoid lowering your standard (pushing the lure closer to the surface) if your dog refuses your target trial - doing so may teach her that hesitation results in an easier task.  
      

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2. Select a cue word that represents this new target destination, i.e. dive, plunge, snorkel, beneath, duck, or scuba.  Once your dog is joyfully submerging her head, you may introduce the cue word by using it just before your dog dives.
   

Developing the Submerged Retrieve.

A basic retrieve requires the dog to know what is being sought, where to go to get it, to move on cue to the article and bring it back to the handler’s hand.  The underwater retrieve adds a necessary submerge to the where in this behavior chain.  To make the next learning step easy for your dog, she should have a reliable retrieve on land and a play-driven submerge in the water. Select some of your dog’s favorite toys to be used as retrieve articles and reinforcers and move to the water.

Where you introduce the underwater retrieve is important. If you begin descent training at the shoreline and gradually move your article deeper, you will be training the creative dog to paw the article to shore.  Instead, start in water elbow deep for the dog or stand the dog on a water platform placed in swim depth water.

From wade depth, submerge a platform or a bucket (bottom up) at a depth that will table the retrieve article for a nose depth dive.   If you begin with a suspended article, place the weight at a depth that suspends the article just below the surface.  Cue the retrieve with the dive word plus the retrieve signal.  Reinforce generously when the article is delivered to hand.  

If the dog paws the article off the table, the game ends and the opportunity to earn treats goes away for a while.

Before building for depth, generalize this nose dive retrieve to other locations within the same body of water and other lakes if possible.  Change start positions; sometimes begin with the shore on the left of the handler, sometimes on the right.  Switch the dog’s position; send from your right and then your left side. Change retrieve articles; vary by size, shape, texture, scent, and weight.  Make speed an important criteria to your dog by giving high-value reinforcers for the fastest recoveries.

When the dog is quickly recovering the article, descent training may begin. You may gradually lower the article by  (1) moving the platform, suspended article or bucket in to deeper water,  or (2) shortening the line on the suspended article. Train for recovery speed before changing depths. 

Polishing the behavior. With the dog next to your leg, wade in, stop at head submersion depth and cue your dog to wait. Toss the article about three feet in front of the dog and immediately send her for the retrieve. Did you get a fast recovery? Next, work on longer delays before sending. Change the dog’s start side. Change the toss distance.  Vary the team’s orientation to the shoreline.  Rehearse with a variety of retrieve articles. Watch and learn how sunlight, reflections, sun glare, wind direction, bottom texture, depth, water temperature and clarity effect your dog’s speed.  Set your dog up for success with this wisdom and go have a ducky good time below the surface.

Deborah Lee Miller Riley is the founder and director of Canine Water Sports, a sports organization dedicated to providing swim challenges for all kinds of dogs. She is also a watersports competitor, instructor and judge for Canine Water Sports and the Portuguese Water Dog Club of America. www.caninewatersports.com

PHOTOS BY DEBORAH LEE MILLER-RILEY